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Old 05-23-2009, 08:11 PM   #501
6SpeedBlazer
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duane my uppers hit my header in the EXACT same spot.

whenever i get around to redoing my front suspension i plan on getting the same uppers you have
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Old 05-23-2009, 09:05 PM   #502
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I would need to do some more reading...but...I think one of your shim problems stems from the fact that you're using "short" UCA's. G-body arms are shorter (from the pivot point to the C/L of the ball joint) and therefore require the tall uppers (do you have those?). To get the negative camber gain I believe they require the use of tall spindles or tall lower ball joints. I didn't get too far in my research for this since I went with the ATS tall spindles, but IIRC all the above applies to this situation with the shims.

I personally picked up the same arms NOT for the handling advantages, but because I wasn't going to mess up my $1200 headers with the UCA's banging on them.

Basically I'm saying not to worry about your shim situation since it will probably improve once you complete the package that I think you're wanting to get.
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Old 05-24-2009, 09:54 AM   #503
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87wildside - Thanks for the heads up, I knew they were cheaper, but never heard any numbers. That would still put them at $65-$70 a Piece, which I just didn't want to do now. Unless I HAVE to.

No I do NOT have tall balljoints. Gbodyparts.com, and a few misc threads around the net told me that they would be stock replacement for use with stock spindles and ball joints on an S10.

The shims I used are exactly how they came out with stock stuff. I'm under the understanding that these arms are stock spec, and therefor would need shims in the same location to match my alignment "before" (which should be a good spot for them to start at when I take it for an alignment on Tue). Besides, greater amount of shims would bring the control arm IN... which would be opposite of what "shorter" arms would need. (I think)

You may be thinking of Bbody suspension, not Gbody. I think the Bbody stuff is taller. Gbody is the same geometry, just has a different size bushing on one of the arms. In all honesty, I look into it just far enough to see what I could afford at this point to get the truck on the road... and planned to do more research at a later point on exactly what arms, balljoints, springs (coil-over?), and spindles that would be in my "master plan". My brother owns a Gbody Monte Carlo that he needs to build, so I'm sure he wouldn't mind a hand-me-down set of AAM LS1 Camaro brake setup on stock height spindles.
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Old 05-24-2009, 10:18 AM   #504
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From what I can gather the flat ball joint plate is for lowered vehicles to help with the upper BJ angles.
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Old 05-25-2009, 04:38 PM   #505
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The upper balljoint is TOTALLY bound up when the suspension is at full droop.

Got the truck back on the ground, and with the shims in the same locations as they were previously, it has a noticeable negative camber. Hopefully they can pull enough shims to get it back into spec. Going to do a little digging and see if there are some specs that might be a little more favorible to handling (without killing tires). E.g, maybe a little negative camber would be better.

The first two stops were AWESOME. Hammered the brakes, and the truck stopped straight, with just a LITTLE lockup on the front as I applied more and more pressure. The 3rd stop was when the pads were bedded in, junk was cleaned up, and the fronts grabbed like SOB. Locked EASILY. Nose-dive like CRAZY. Gonna wait till the pads are totally worn in, then play with the prop valve as it's just dead center right now.

I HAVE to run wheel spacers because my wheels hit the corvette abutment brackets. I knew it was going to be close, because I test fit the wheels on a camaro (spun, but close enough to scrape paint off). It came down to a few MM, which I knew would be the difference of the AAM brackets and how centered the drill and tap was when modding the spindles. TTII wheels are fatties I guess

Forgot about the front shocks till after we were "done". So that'll happen tomorrow.

Oh, and front sway bar bushings are shot, gotta replace those soon.
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Old 05-26-2009, 06:52 AM   #506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HectorM52 View Post
I would need to do some more reading...but...I think one of your shim problems stems from the fact that you're using "short" UCA's. G-body arms are shorter (from the pivot point to the C/L of the ball joint) and therefore require the tall uppers (do you have those?). To get the negative camber gain I believe they require the use of tall spindles or tall lower ball joints. I didn't get too far in my research for this since I went with the ATS tall spindles, but IIRC all the above applies to this situation with the shims.

I personally picked up the same arms NOT for the handling advantages, but because I wasn't going to mess up my $1200 headers with the UCA's banging on them.

Basically I'm saying not to worry about your shim situation since it will probably improve once you complete the package that I think you're wanting to get.
stop and think about that for a second. if he had shorter upper control arms he would have a lot of neg camber with no shims.
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Old 05-26-2009, 08:37 AM   #507
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Originally Posted by 6SpeedBlazer View Post
stop and think about that for a second. if he had shorter upper control arms he would have a lot of neg camber with no shims.
From above your post....
Quote:
Originally Posted by chevy42083 View Post
Got the truck back on the ground, and with the shims in the same locations as they were previously, it has a noticeable negative camber. Hopefully they can pull enough shims to get it back into spec.
So, they'll have to pull shims to get it back to spec.

Seems like changing ANYTHING in the suspension ends up throwing off the camber. IMO, it could be the angle of the balljoint mounting flange. I didn't measure any of it. I could have measured from cross shaft to the actual swivel point of the balljoint, but instead we just got to work, and put it together. My time at the shop is limited. It's my brother's full-time job, and he gets tired of spending recreational time up there doing what he does all day everyday.
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Old 05-26-2009, 12:01 PM   #508
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I remember thinking (not sure if I said it out loud) that they were going to have to pull shims with the new control arms. So today is alignment day, let us know how it goes.

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Old 05-26-2009, 12:25 PM   #509
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There is ONE cross-shaft joint that I can NOT grease while tightened down on the truck It is simply too close to the exhaust flange on the driver's side. I'm hoping I can find a different fitting (not straight) for the grease gun.
You could also look into replacing the zerk fitting as well. I know you can get them in 45* so you might even be able to get 90* fittings as well.
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Old 05-26-2009, 09:00 PM   #510
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Quote:
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From above your post....


So, they'll have to pull shims to get it back to spec.

Seems like changing ANYTHING in the suspension ends up throwing off the camber. IMO, it could be the angle of the balljoint mounting flange. I didn't measure any of it. I could have measured from cross shaft to the actual swivel point of the balljoint, but instead we just got to work, and put it together. My time at the shop is limited. It's my brother's full-time job, and he gets tired of spending recreational time up there doing what he does all day everyday.
if you have negative camber you take shims out.
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