98+ blazer front brake swap done - S-SeriesForum.com

bluex · 11-03-2003, 12:26 AM

Well finally the nightmare is over.....somewhat.

Got everything swapped over this weekend. It went pretty good, no major problems.

The biggest problem:

My dr. side line is streched at full right lock. I had to reuse my stock truck lines b/c the fitting sizes are different? I put the lines side-by-side and they are the same length. I did use the blazer hard line brackets, had to bend my stock lines to them. I dont understand if its ok on the blazer, why is it streched on my truck? It needs to be about and inch longer. I have a feeling in a short time it will be streched too much and will seperate/leak. Probably gonna go scrounge and get some blazer hard lines due to some length issues with my truck ones, then I can use the blazer rubber lines that fit in the brackets. The truck hoses will not go into the blazer brackets, they have a different pattern.

The spindles raised my truck about an inch. I forgot to measure before I started

. I'm sitting at 27" in the front (the x flares add about and inch to the fender length) and 28" in the back after I took out my 1" blocks. The truck looked funny dragging its tail so I took them out. Now I guess I need the drop spindles (yeaa!

) It may settle more and I can put my blocks back in but I doubt it. Got a pretty sloppy lower ball joint on the dr. side, another good reason to go ahead with the spindles when/if I install it.

Get all your parts with your calipers!!!! I spent $57 on the caliper pins, and I also dont have the wear indicators. Wanna guess how much they are??? $18 for two!!! I need 8!

They are also a dealer only item and are not stocked. I cut up an old tag to get the pads to fit snugly and I may just leave them. I really dont feel like spending another $80 on this project. I only spent $50 for the dang calipers/saddle brackets. I've still got to get it aligned in the morning.

Well enough of my

Anyone have a clue about my line length problem?? I'm gonna keep and eye on it so I dont wind up brakeless. I'm trying not to turn too far to the right either, but thats kinda hard.

scott750 · 11-04-2003, 03:25 AM

I going to write something just so I can keep a watch on your progress. Good luck

bobh · 11-04-2003, 01:18 PM

I did the swap on my 93 Jimmy a little over a week ago. So far no problems. I do need to check the lines to be sure they are not too tight. My truck is not lowered.
As for the caliper pins. The factory pins (at least the ones on my calipers) are stainless steel. O'Reilly Auto parts has a kit with plated steel pins for around $6. The kit also includes the little boots and some springs. The same kit from the dealer was $20 per side. You may have been better off buying the kit. When you try to buy a small part that is normally part of a kit they charge more because it's a special situation.
The wear indicators come with new pads. Again, asking for just the wear indicators is a special request. In this case the dealer may not even have a part number.
I did some extra things when I swapped. Even though my Jimmy has only 70K miles I changed the lower ball joints to the heavy duty MOOG units. I also bought Brembo rotors ($42 each), Bendix Titanium Metallic pads ($40) and rebuilt calipers (AZ $32 Each) . Since going through the buying of all the parts seperately I've learned about loaded calipers. AZ has some loaded rear calipers with some house brand pads. O'Reilly has Wagner rebuilt and loaded calipers. These include everything, calpiers, saddles, pins, Wagner Thermo Quiet pads... I bought these for the rear. They were around $69 each. Yes that seems like a lot of money but the pads alone are $50 a set. The calipers are clean with no oxidation. I'll be painting them tonite. Looking back, I wish I new about loaded calipers before I did the front. I would have gone with the Wagner units.
I'm getting the rest of the parts together to do my rear end swap. I may do it this weekend or maybe the next. If I don't get it done then It will have to wait for awhile. I have some travelling to do.
For anyone considering this swap. It is worth while. The Jimmy finally stops like it should. When you nail the brakes you can tell the difference immediately.
By the way, I'm doing some research on the master cylinder ans combination valve for the Disc/Disc setup. There are a number of sites that say you must have at least a different valve or a modified valve. Others say you need both the valve and the master cylinder. I'm probably going to get both parts from the junk yard and see if they fit. The fittings may be different. I'll find out soon.

By the way Blue. If I still have the wear indicators on the old pads you can have them. I'll try to check today or tonight.

BOBH

bluex · 11-05-2003, 12:31 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bobh

By the way Blue. If I still have the wear indicators on the old pads you can have them. I'll try to check today or tonight.

BOBH

If you still have them you are the man!

I got a new set of pads, some $27 wagners, but they did not come with the indicators. Maybe I can try another store or a different brand and see if I can get them then.

bobh · 11-05-2003, 09:11 AM

Paul,

I'll try to find them. It was raining pretty hard by the time I got home last night. They are probably in the back of my Sonoma. The Bendix Titanium Mettalics I bought had new ones in a little package in the box. You may want to ask the store to check another box.

I'll let you know tomorrow.

BOBH

kossuth · 11-05-2003, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bluex
Well finally the nightmare is over.....somewhat.

Got everything swapped over this weekend. It went pretty good, no major problems.

The biggest problem:

My dr. side line is streched at full right lock. I had to reuse my stock truck lines b/c the fitting sizes are different? I put the lines side-by-side and they are the same length. I did use the blazer hard line brackets, had to bend my stock lines to them. I dont understand if its ok on the blazer, why is it streched on my truck? It needs to be about and inch longer. I have a feeling in a short time it will be streched too much and will seperate/leak. Probably gonna go scrounge and get some blazer hard lines due to some length issues with my truck ones, then I can use the blazer rubber lines that fit in the brackets. The truck hoses will not go into the blazer brackets, they have a different pattern.

The spindles raised my truck about an inch. I forgot to measure before I started . I'm sitting at 27" in the front (the x flares add about and inch to the fender length) and 28" in the back after I took out my 1" blocks. The truck looked funny dragging its tail so I took them out. Now I guess I need the drop spindles (yeaa! ) It may settle more and I can put my blocks back in but I doubt it. Got a pretty sloppy lower ball joint on the dr. side, another good reason to go ahead with the spindles when/if I install it.

Get all your parts with your calipers!!!! I spent $57 on the caliper pins, and I also dont have the wear indicators. Wanna guess how much they are??? $18 for two!!! I need 8! They are also a dealer only item and are not stocked. I cut up an old tag to get the pads to fit snugly and I may just leave them. I really dont feel like spending another $80 on this project. I only spent $50 for the dang calipers/saddle brackets. I've still got to get it aligned in the morning.

Well enough of my Anyone have a clue about my line length problem?? I'm gonna keep and eye on it so I dont wind up brakeless. I'm trying not to turn too far to the right either, but thats kinda hard.

Ok well as for the line maybe separating here is what I would look at. I believe the steer stops on the blazer are lower than what they are on the truck. With that said that might be why your line is stretched. My truck never had that problem. Again though I was never using stock stuff to start with. I suspect it is the steer stops. Another thing you will have to look at if you lower it is you might have to shorten the brake line brackets and cut the hard lines and move everything up. At full lock the line would bend into my inside tire because the line positioning sucked. Now I have mine pretty well figured out so all is good for now. I wish I had the truck here and I had a digi camara and I would show you what I mean.

Nate · 11-06-2003, 09:42 AM

you better be glad Kristy doens't read this section, or she'd have your ass considering she is the one who made those "replacement wear indicators"

I think there is a peice of metal in my hand because it is turning pruple and red and is still swollen!!

Glad you got it all worked out, hey if you get the blazer drop spindles before teh meet, we will have anpother project!! WOOOHOOOO!!!

We really should have taken pics and stuff with a digi cam installing the front. But I was really surprised at how smooth it went.

Nate · 11-06-2003, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by kossuth
I wish I had the truck here and I had a digi camara and I would show you what I mean.

Ceom down to the ATL meet!! then you can show us all!!!

redblazerx · 11-06-2003, 10:19 AM

Oh yea Paul, YOU ARE WELCOME for all the help I gave you too.

bluex · 11-06-2003, 11:27 PM

Nate hope your hand gets better, hopefully its just like that b/c its getting better? If its still bothering you monday you might wanna get it checked out.

Kristy knows I appricated the help, esp. after you got wounded and layed down on me.

lol

Thanks for all the parts chasing chris, I know I've told you about twelve times too though.

bobh: any luck with the indicators?

11-03-2003, 12:26 AM	#1
bluex SSF Subscriber* Someday???? Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Spartanburg, SC Posts: 4,169	98+ blazer front brake swap done Well finally the nightmare is over.....somewhat. Got everything swapped over this weekend. It went pretty good, no major problems. The biggest problem: My dr. side line is streched at full right lock. I had to reuse my stock truck lines b/c the fitting sizes are different? I put the lines side-by-side and they are the same length. I did use the blazer hard line brackets, had to bend my stock lines to them. I dont understand if its ok on the blazer, why is it streched on my truck? It needs to be about and inch longer. I have a feeling in a short time it will be streched too much and will seperate/leak. Probably gonna go scrounge and get some blazer hard lines due to some length issues with my truck ones, then I can use the blazer rubber lines that fit in the brackets. The truck hoses will not go into the blazer brackets, they have a different pattern. The spindles raised my truck about an inch. I forgot to measure before I started . I'm sitting at 27" in the front (the x flares add about and inch to the fender length) and 28" in the back after I took out my 1" blocks. The truck looked funny dragging its tail so I took them out. Now I guess I need the drop spindles (yeaa! ) It may settle more and I can put my blocks back in but I doubt it. Got a pretty sloppy lower ball joint on the dr. side, another good reason to go ahead with the spindles when/if I install it. Get all your parts with your calipers!!!! I spent $57 on the caliper pins, and I also dont have the wear indicators. Wanna guess how much they are??? $18 for two!!! I need 8! They are also a dealer only item and are not stocked. I cut up an old tag to get the pads to fit snugly and I may just leave them. I really dont feel like spending another $80 on this project. I only spent $50 for the dang calipers/saddle brackets. I've still got to get it aligned in the morning. Well enough of my Anyone have a clue about my line length problem?? I'm gonna keep and eye on it so I dont wind up brakeless. I'm trying not to turn too far to the right either, but thats kinda hard. __________________ Paul '98 Silverado Z71 ECSB 5.7L/4L60/3.73's '02 Suburban 5.3L/4L60/3.73's '78 GMC Serria 1500 361/700R4/3.73 '00 Indigo Blue Xtreme 262/4L60E/3.42--SOLD

11-04-2003, 03:25 AM	#2
scott750 SSF Subscriber* C is for COOKIE!!! Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 4,386	I going to write something just so I can keep a watch on your progress. Good luck __________________ *2008 Trailblazer SS* - Silverstone Metallic 6.0L 390HP LS2, leather/suede seats, SS Chrome front bowtie, Grafxwerks Silver Metallic rear bowtie overlay, Kenwood DDX712, JL Audio 500/5 amp, JL Audio C5-650 Component Front doors, JL Audio VR-525 Coaxial Rear doors, JL Audio Stealthbox Sub. *SOLD2001 S-10*** - Dark Cherry Metallic Red, V6, ZQ8 +2/3, Blazer 4 wheel disc brake conversion, stock zq8 wheels, Gibson exhaust, SLP Y-pipe My Gallery : Cardomain Website

11-06-2003, 09:42 AM	#7
Nate SSF Subscriber* ... Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: here Posts: 35,239	you better be glad Kristy doens't read this section, or she'd have your ass considering she is the one who made those "replacement wear indicators" I think there is a peice of metal in my hand because it is turning pruple and red and is still swollen!! Glad you got it all worked out, hey if you get the blazer drop spindles before teh meet, we will have anpother project!! WOOOHOOOO!!! We really should have taken pics and stuff with a digi cam installing the front. But I was really surprised at how smooth it went. __________________

11-06-2003, 10:19 AM	#9
redblazerx Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Spartanburg, sc Posts: 287	Oh yea Paul, YOU ARE WELCOME for all the help I gave you too. __________________ Chris 2001 Blazer X gen 3 hood, posi, 2/3 drop, painted door handles, bug shield, tail light covers, l.e.d. neon kit, 4-JL W0's, strobed the f*** out

11-06-2003, 11:27 PM	#10
bluex SSF Subscriber* Someday???? Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Spartanburg, SC Posts: 4,169	Nate hope your hand gets better, hopefully its just like that b/c its getting better? If its still bothering you monday you might wanna get it checked out. Kristy knows I appricated the help, esp. after you got wounded and layed down on me. lol Thanks for all the parts chasing chris, I know I've told you about twelve times too though. bobh: any luck with the indicators? __________________ Paul '98 Silverado Z71 ECSB 5.7L/4L60/3.73's '02 Suburban 5.3L/4L60/3.73's '78 GMC Serria 1500 361/700R4/3.73 '00 Indigo Blue Xtreme 262/4L60E/3.42--SOLD

11-04-2003, 01:18 PM	#3
bobh Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Alabama Posts: 124	I did the swap on my 93 Jimmy a little over a week ago. So far no problems. I do need to check the lines to be sure they are not too tight. My truck is not lowered. As for the caliper pins. The factory pins (at least the ones on my calipers) are stainless steel. O'Reilly Auto parts has a kit with plated steel pins for around $6. The kit also includes the little boots and some springs. The same kit from the dealer was $20 per side. You may have been better off buying the kit. When you try to buy a small part that is normally part of a kit they charge more because it's a special situation. The wear indicators come with new pads. Again, asking for just the wear indicators is a special request. In this case the dealer may not even have a part number. I did some extra things when I swapped. Even though my Jimmy has only 70K miles I changed the lower ball joints to the heavy duty MOOG units. I also bought Brembo rotors ($42 each), Bendix Titanium Metallic pads ($40) and rebuilt calipers (AZ $32 Each) . Since going through the buying of all the parts seperately I've learned about loaded calipers. AZ has some loaded rear calipers with some house brand pads. O'Reilly has Wagner rebuilt and loaded calipers. These include everything, calpiers, saddles, pins, Wagner Thermo Quiet pads... I bought these for the rear. They were around $69 each. Yes that seems like a lot of money but the pads alone are $50 a set. The calipers are clean with no oxidation. I'll be painting them tonite. Looking back, I wish I new about loaded calipers before I did the front. I would have gone with the Wagner units. I'm getting the rest of the parts together to do my rear end swap. I may do it this weekend or maybe the next. If I don't get it done then It will have to wait for awhile. I have some travelling to do. For anyone considering this swap. It is worth while. The Jimmy finally stops like it should. When you nail the brakes you can tell the difference immediately. By the way, I'm doing some research on the master cylinder ans combination valve for the Disc/Disc setup. There are a number of sites that say you must have at least a different valve or a modified valve. Others say you need both the valve and the master cylinder. I'm probably going to get both parts from the junk yard and see if they fit. The fittings may be different. I'll find out soon. By the way Blue. If I still have the wear indicators on the old pads you can have them. I'll try to check today or tonight. BOBH

11-05-2003, 09:11 AM	#5
bobh Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Alabama Posts: 124	Paul, I'll try to find them. It was raining pretty hard by the time I got home last night. They are probably in the back of my Sonoma. The Bendix Titanium Mettalics I bought had new ones in a little package in the box. You may want to ask the store to check another box. I'll let you know tomorrow. BOBH

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