HOW TO: First Gen REAR Blazer Brake Upgrade

[HectorM52]

Okay - so this has been a fun one for me... Thought I'd share some pics and maybe a short story or two about this...


Step 1

Obviously, you must be in posession of the rear setup from a 98+ Blazer/Jimmy. I don't know if the setup EVER came on S10's. Correct me if I'm wrong. I'd suggest getting the whole thing, including E-Brake lines AND the rubber line on the caliper.

[HectorM52]

Step 2

Begin by removing rear wheels and setting the entire back end of the truck on jackstands. Remove drum and disassemble drum brake assembly. You should do this on BOTH SIDES.

[HectorM52]

Step 3

Remove cover from rear end. In my case, there are 10 bolts. I have a "10 Bolt" rear end that is 7 5/8" diameter gear. Don't forget your pan to catch the stinky stuff...

[HectorM52]

Step 4

Put truck into neutral. You should be able to spin the axles freely. Still looking at the rear end ring gear, spin the axle slowly until you see a small bolt (8 mm on mine) that is running left-right direction. Remove this bolt. This will free up the center pin of the rear end. Now spin the axle slowly around until you see the center pin inside the gear. Lightly tap this out. It only will come out one direction, so if it isn't coming out for you, try spinning the gear around 180 degrees and try from that end.

8mm bolt (on right) holding in center pin (you see the end of the pin)

[HectorM52]

Step 5

Spin the axles slowly again until you are looking at the "open" area of the gear. Now lightly slide one of the axles in towards the center of the truck. You may get 1/2" play. After that, using a magnet or a pair of needle nose pliers, carefully grab the "c-clip" from the end of the axle. This slides on and off easily so don't force it. You should be able to remove the axle once the c-clip is removed. Remove it and set it aside. Don't forget the drip bucket under the end of the axle tube. REPEAT FOR BOTH SIDES.

"c-clip" just to the right of the Center Pin (going up and down)

[HectorM52]

Step 6

You should be looking at a backing plate with the wheel cylinder (pictured below) and the large bolt holding the plate on (located at top center of backing plate). Remove the brake line from the back of the wheel cylinder. Remove the wheel cylinder by removing clip from rear of the backing plate (see picture). You should only have 2 10mm bolts and one large bolt holding on the backing plate. Remove 2 10mm bolts. Now use your 21mm socket on the back of the plate and a crescent wrench (all I had) on the front of the plate. Remove this bolt. ***It just may be the hardest and tightest bolt & nut you've ever encountered. No, really. Good luck - hope you've got a big breaker bar.***

[HectorM52]

Step 7

Okay, get your favorite cutting tool: Hacksaw, Cutoff wheel, recriprocating saw, etc... You are cutting the top part of the flange off so you can place the new brake backing plate on there. If you look at the flange, there is a coutour line - use this as a guide of where to cut. You want to cut on the bottom edge of the countour line. Repeat on BOTH SIDES so you can place the new brake backing plate flat on there. Trim corners and round off if necessary.

This picture shows the contour line on the left and my first cut on the right.

[HectorM52]

Step 8

So you've cut off the top part of the plate. And the new backing plate fits flush against it since you trimmed and cut so nicely. NOW, take those 10mm bolts and use them to bolt the new backing plate on there so you can mark where you will be drilling the top two holes. ONE of the two bottom holes on the new backing plate is recessed so the 10mm bolt lines it up perfectly. You must line the other up on your own. Now mark where you will be drilling the top two holes. Remove the new backing plate and drill your 4 holes (I used a 7/16" bit but I think I could have used a 13/32" or even a 1/32 smaller). Repeat for both sides. Good luck on this one too. I went through several drill bits.

[HectorM52]

Step 9

Reassemble your backing plate / parking brake assemblies. YOU MUST INSERT 1/4" SPACERS BETWEEN THE BACKING PLATE AND THE FLANGE (see picture). Finger tighten the four bolts that hold it to the rear end. Now carefully insert the axle all the way back in. Gently place the rotor over the 5 lugs so it almost goes over the hub of the axle (You probably won't be able to put it ALL THE WAY on since you need to grind out the rotor a bit in order for it to slide over). Spin the axle and rotor assembly. Basically, you are helping to center the backing plate assembly on the rear end. Now, gently remove the rotor and axle and finish tightening the 4 bolts. REPEAT FOR BOTH SIDES.

[HectorM52]

Step 10

Insert both axles gently. Reinstall the c-clips on the ends of the axles. Gently pull both axles away from the center of the truck. Reinstall the center pin in the gear and reinstall the 8mm bolt. Put rear cover back on with RTV sealant (see pic). Put in grease & additive if you have a posi.

Grind a tiny bit of metal from the inside of the brake rotor where it slips over the hub of the axle. Grind just enough so it slides over the hub. Reinstall the rotor and reinstall the caliper.

Hook your hard line from your original rear end to the rubber line going to the caliper. What do you know, same size!!! WOO HOO!!