Repair your leaky oil cooler lines!!

[Hotwire]

Here's a run down of what you need to do in order to replace the leaky factory crimped hoses on your stock oil cooler lines. I did this write up w/ a set of old lines I had laying around. It is NOT necessary to remove the lines from the vehicle when performing this repair.

First off, a run down of the tools:

angle OR straight die grinder w/ a cutoff wheel (or whatever you have that will work)
pliers
wide tipped flat blade screwdriver
brake cleaner
clean rags
1/2" high pressure oil cooler line
heavy duty worm gear hose clamps



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Use the cut off wheel (or comparable means) to cut a line down the side of the crimp, be VERY CAREFUL not to hit the compression in the aluminum line (arrow). It's ok if you do not cut the crimp completely, it's very soft aluminum and will break/tear easily w/ pliers. If using a cutoff wheel, you will get burning rubber and oil smell.



Use the flat blade screwdriver as a pry tool and pliers to remove the crimp from the oil line.





A quick tug will seperate the rubber hose from the aluminum line. Have a drain pan close by as oil will come pouring out of the seperated lines.



Spray brake cleaner on a clean rag until the rag is saturated. Be sure not to get any in your eyes as it comes out under high pressure. Use the rag and THOROUGHLY clean the area where the rubber line will go. It is very important to get this area spotless, any oil left will result in oil leak or possible failure of connection.



Here is the hose you should be using, I got it from NAPA, it's a couple dollars a foot, usually is stored in a roll in a cardboard box, just tell em how much you need and they'll cut it off the roll. It is the oil cooler line pressure rated @ 300psi, NOT the transmission line rated at 400psi.

The hose I purchase from my local napa is ATP1-4864, or just ATP14864

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...e+-+Oil+Cooler

The #s are 8002361 MADE IN U.S.A. CS111804 CAUTION- DO NOT STRETCH; MIN. 3" BEND X500



Once clean and dry, hook up the new hose w/ the worm gear clamps. I try to center the clamp over the crimped section of the hard line to ensure a tight connection. Tighten the clamps until you can feel the rubber bulging through the slots on the backside of the clamp. (Old hot rodder trick I learned)
[hose clamp is not tightened in this picture, for display purposes only. Notice the factory hose has 1/2" marking on it, this is the correct size to use]



Here's the lines on my $900 blazer, has about 7-8k on these lines, runs over 60 psi on cold mornings, no problems.





Hope this helps!

This post is NOT to be duplicated on any other site without MY consent!

[TECH]

nice write up Hotwire. cheap and easy.

[gen1crewcab]

Can you reuse the existing rubber line ?

[Hotwire]

Originally Posted by gen1crewcab

Can you reuse the existing rubber line ?

I suppose you could, but they're drenched in oil when you take them off, it's a lot easier / cheaper / piece of mind to go w/ new lines. Costs maybe $3 / ft. I think I got 5 ft of hose and have some left over.

[Boosted Thrills]

thats how i fix treansmission lines, works great.

i just wanna strees the point to everyone else how important it is to use hose raited for oil, NOT HEATER HOSE

[Hotwire]

rehosted images upon request.

[HectorM52]

DUDE - you rehosted the images!!!

[S 10 MTRSPTZ]

I had the pics already.... he , he, he.

Way to go Jeff .

[Hotwire]

Site dependant guys.. site dependant..

[HectorM52]

Copy and paste... copy and paste...








...you know I wouldn't.